Saturday, September 1, 2012

Swiss Eagle Flight Deck

Today, we’ve come to the last 
Swiss Eagle model that we’ve currently got on hand for a review – the Flight Deck.
Not surprisingly (given the name), this is part of their Fly collection (our sample is ref. 9023).  While I tend to think of tachymeter scales / bezels being used more on land or water, I suppose they could be used just as well in the air.

And since it has those scales, you’re probably guessing that we’ve got a true chronograph on our hands, and that would be a very correct statement.  That, in turn, gives us the following dial layout:
  • Main time seconds at 2 o’clock
  • Chrono hours at 6 o’clock
  • Chrono minutes at 10 o’clock
  • Chrono seconds with the large second hand 
Along with that layout, we have a dial design that (if my eyes don’t deceive me), is actually carried over from the Landmaster that we took a look at last week – similar concentric circles and machined numerals and indices.  Here, though, the numerals are a bit “chopped”, as the various sub-dials cut into them. 
While I like the machined numerals themselves, when they only partially appear as they do here, I feel that the dial would be better served by small indices instead.  And, as long as we’re focusing on minor tweaks to the dial, of course I’d love to see a color-matched date wheel (black with white numerals) used. 
In terms of the chronograph functions, they worked as you would expect – the top pusher controls the start/stop, and the lower pusher engages the split time and reset functionality.  While you could ostensibly use the rotating (bi-directional) bezel for calculating speeds, you’ll want to be careful not to bump it, as it does not lock in place (ie, no clicks), which would throw things off. 
The stainless steel case measures in at a comfortable 44mm, with nicely curved lugs allowing it to snug up on your wrist.  The alternating matte/polished bracelet comes in at 22mm wide, and I had no issues with comfort.  As an additional nicety, the butterfly clasp has a push button release (as well as a flip lock), which makes it much easier to remove than a friction release would.

One note on the bracelet as it relates to sizing.  While I was able to size it in relatively close to what I like on my wrist (7.25″), it was still a touch looser than I would like.  I played with various link addition (and removal) along with setting the spring pin on the clasp, and either got it too tight or just a touch too loose.  If your wrist is more on the 0.5″ measurements, you shouldn’t have any issue.  For those of us on the quarters, though, it might be handy if some half-links were added to the bracelet in a future revision.
Rounding the remainder of the watch out, you’ve got a sapphire crystal up front, stainless steel screw-in case back, and a water resistance rating of 100m.  As with the other Swiss Eagle models we’ve reviewed, you’ve got some nicely applied lume (as well as the lumed logo applique, which I still think is a nice twist).
Minor design change wishes aside, this is a very solid quartz chronograph.  Should you not like the stainless and black model we reviewed, they do have three other iterations (stainless + white, IP black + black, and blue on black leather) available; pricing ranges from $310 up to $440, dependent on the specific model.
As to the pricing, yes, that is putting this one closer to the ranges you can get a nice automatic.  I think this particular model is again best suited for someone who wants the ease-of-use that a quartz model offers, and appreciates classic styling updated with some nice visual twists.

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Ingersoll Men's Zuni Watch


Watch Information
 - Movement: Automatic
 - Dual Time, Date and Power Reserve Display
 - Water Resistant: 30m
 - Case Diameter: 45mm
 - Dial Colour: White
 - Glass: Mineral Glass
 - Strap Material: Leather
 - Case Material: Stainless Steel

Today, we’re dipping back into the Ingersoll catalog, this time taking a look at another dual time display model – the Zuni.
Now, the last one, the Bison, I wasn’t as big of a fan of.  This time around, though, I think they’ve hit the right notes with the dual display.  The particular sample we were sent over is reference IN3605RWH, which features a rose gold tone case and brown leather strap (as the differentiation from the other model in the family).
Here again, we have the 848 calibre automatic (36 jewels), driving the dual time display (9 o’clock and 3 o’clock), power reserve indicator (12 o’clock), and the date display (6 o’clock) tucked away in a stainless steel case; this time it measures in at 45mm (13mm thick), with 24mm lugs to hold the strap (with deployant clasp) in place.
Underneath the mineral crystal, we’ve got what I would consider a vintage-inspired dial.  I say this in large part due to the typeface used for the numerals (both the large ones, as well as the smaller ones around the inner bezel), as well as the generous use of two different textures in different parts of the dial.  In short, this is a very interesting dial to be looking at.
And looking at it a good bit you will be doing, since it takes some learning to read this sort of a dial.  At first, you try looking at the large center hand, but you know that’s not the time.  So, you’ll drop to reading one of the two sub-dials.  In the images here, I’ve got them set to the same time, but you can easily set the one on the left to a different time by rotating the crown counter-clockwise.
This of course means you want to be careful setting the right-most dial, as if you spin past the current time, you can’t back up to correct it.  But, that’s a minor quirk, I’d say.  One other one is the doubling of the 30 and the 60 around the outer edge of the dial.  I can see why the other smaller red numerals are in place, but those were a bit odd.
In the end though, this is a nicely put together piece with a layout you don’t see much (at least, outside the Ingersoll catalog).  It’s nicely proportioned, and would work well with a suit or in an office setting; our rose gold example could transition to a casual setting, but it’s definitely a dressier alternative.

Not blinding lume, but it’s there.
In short, if you dug the Bison we looked at, but want something a touch more refined, the Zuni is your friend.  Our example retails for $485; if you opt for the polished stainless (with black strap), the MSRP drops down to $465.

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Ingersoll Bison No. 25

Watches Information
 - Stainless steel case.
 - Black leather strap with red stitching.
 - Black dial.
 - Date display.
 - Dual time.
 - Scratch resistant mineral crystal.
 - Power reserve.
 - Automatic movement.
 - Automatic watches recharge through any motion including natural movement of ones wrist.
 - Never requires battery or battery replacement.
 - Caliber 848.
 - Water resistant up to 300 meters/ 990 Feet.
 - Case size: 52mm.

It’s time for us to have another dip into the Ingersoll catalog – and this time, I’ve come up with something that’s one of the biggest (if not the biggest) watch I’ve ever strapped on to my wrist.
The mondo watch is part of their Bison line, model number 25.   So, let’s get one thing out of the way – this watch measures in at a hefty 52mm in diameter – and being as it’s made from stainless steel, this is not a watch you’ll forget that you have on your wrist.
When I first opened up the box, I saw some details that I immediately liked – that being the prominent power reserve indicator up at the 12 o’clock position (I don’t know why, but I like seeing that complication in action), and the large date display down at 6 o’clock (it’s fun to set that one, just watching the digits flip).
Then I noticed the two sub-dials, and thought that maybe we somehow had a triple time tracker on our hands.  That thought was quickly amended, however, when I realized that the main dial was only tracking seconds.  The “sub” dials are actually what you’re recording the time with.
They can be independently set, though that behavior is a bit tricky.  You wind in one direction, and it starts moving them both forward in lockstep; turn the crown in the opposite direction, and only one of them goes back.  So, in this way, you can set two timezones; but if you make a mistake setting the “home” one, you’re going around another 24 hours since you can’t back it up.
For me, the time display was the biggest let-down.  Given the massive case, it’s unfortunate (in my opinion) that the timekeeping functions are as hard to read as they are – it just seems that there would have been room for some innovation here (that said, the layout is cleanly symmetrical, which I do appreciate).
As to what’s keeping track of the time, we have the Ingersoll 848 calibre automatic movement.  I believe this is another “in-house” movement, though it may be sourced like a commenter noted on the Apache review.  The movement itself has some interest, as it makes use of 36 jewels while handling dual time, as well as the power reserve and date displays.
There is one other comment I should make regarding the movement.  While reviewing this watch, I actually had the movement stop working while the watch was off my wrist (yes, yes, the it had been getting “charged” earlier in the day).  Now, as this was a review sample, it may not have been up to production quality levels.  And, as movements are mechanical in nature, issues like this can easily pop up.  That all said, I felt it would be unfair to our readership to not bring this up.
Ok, on to the rest of the watch.  Up front, you have a mineral crystal; around back is a steel case-back (no peeping at the moment here).  All together with the canteen-style crown protector, you’ve got a water resistance rating of 300 meters, though you wouldn’t want to expose the leather strap to that much water.
As to whether or not this is the watch for you – I’ll have to leave that up to the individual.  For me, I really don’t like watches that are large just for the sake of being large (ie, no additional innovation), which the Bison No 25 feels like to me.  That said, I realize other folks have different tastes – and if you want something that beats you over the head with wrist presence, then this may be a contender for your collection.  While retail on the piece is $515, I was able to find for under $300 on Amazon.
 
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